A seasonal feeding and weed-control program built around how warm-season grass actually grows on Blackland Prairie clay — right products, right timing, no guesswork. Serving Waco, Woodway, Hewitt and Robinson since 2004.
Fertilizer bought off a shelf and spread whenever is how a lot of Waco lawns end up yellow in July or full of grassburs by August. Warm-season grasses — Bermuda, St. Augustine, Zoysia — only use nutrients when they're actively growing, and our alkaline clay soil changes what they can absorb. M&M Lawn Service runs a scheduled program tied to soil temperature and grass growth, not the calendar alone, so each application lands when the lawn can actually use it.
Pre-emergent timing is the whole game. The spring barrier has to be down and watered in before soil temperatures hit the mid-50s. In a warm February that can be the third week of the month. A week or two late and crabgrass and grassburs are already germinating — then it's a season of post-emergent catch-up.
Blackland Prairie soil runs high pH. Iron and some micronutrients are present but "locked" — the grass goes yellow-green no matter how much nitrogen you throw at it. Targeted iron fixes the color; excess nitrogen just makes it grow faster and weaker.
A properly fed root system goes deeper and rides out August and water restrictions far better than a lawn that's been starved or over-pushed with quick-release nitrogen.
Grassburs, crabgrass, nutsedge, dallisgrass, clover, henbit, dandelion — Central Texas grows all of them well. A thick, fed lawn plus timed pre-emergent is the only thing that keeps ahead of it.
Chinch bugs can take out a sunny St. Augustine lawn in weeks of peak summer. Grubs hollow out roots in late summer. Both are predictable enough to treat on schedule.
Works best alongside correct mowing height and frequency. See also landscaping and seasonal cleanup.
Twice a year — spring when soil hits the mid-50s (mid-Feb to early March, before crabgrass and grassburs) and fall in September–October for Poa annua and henbit. Miss the window and you're pulling weeds all season.
Three to four between April and September: starter at green-up, main feeding in late spring, an optional slow-release summer feeding on watered lawns, and a fall potassium feeding. Nothing on dormant winter grass.
Alkaline soil locks up iron. The fix is usually an iron treatment, not more nitrogen. It can also be chinch bugs in a hot dry spot or take-all root rot in a wet one — we check first.
Yes. Chinch bugs hit sunny St. Augustine June–September; grubs damage roots in late summer. Both are treatable, and matching the timing to the insect's life cycle matters as much as the product.
Stay off until liquids dry (1–2 hours) and water in granular products before reuse. We label-follow every product and tell you the re-entry time for that day's application.
Partly — a program thickens thin turf and crowds out weeds over a season or two. But if it's more than about half weeds or bare dirt, or the thin spots are from shade or drainage, fertilizer alone won't do it and we'll say so.
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